專欄簡氏酒莊

Bordeaux 2003 first growths

Longstanding FT readers will remember the noble tradition instituted by my predecessor, Edmund Penning-Rowsell: an annual tasting of all eight Bordeaux first growths and equivalents at 10 years old, the age at which they have traditionally been regarded as broachable.

After Edmund died in 2002, the tradition fell into abeyance for several years. One of Citibank’s more generous bons viveurs resurrected it in 2007, when a group of us tasted the 1997s, and I reported on the event here. The fact that during that evening he introduced us to the term “subprime” provides a clue as to why the exercise was not readily repeated.

Since then prices for first growths have risen stratospherically and it is a sign of the times that we had to rely on a star in the east, Hong Kong wine merchant and restaurateur Paulo Pong of Altaya Wines, to revive the tradition a few years ago. Earlier this month saw our third first-growth dinner with Paulo, who kindly supplied most of the wines. Two gaps in his UK collection were plugged by Stephen Browett, owner of London’s biggest fine wine trader, Farr Vintners. Two years ago we tasted the 2001 first growths, one year ago the 2002s and this year it was the turn of the controversial heatwave vintage 2003.

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簡氏酒莊

簡希絲•羅賓遜(Jancis Robinson),從事葡萄酒報導長達37年。1989年起爲英國《金融時報》撰寫葡萄酒報導。1984年,她成爲葡萄酒貿易行業外的第一位葡萄酒大師,並在全球品評葡萄酒。她撰寫過多本經典葡萄酒專著,包括《牛津葡萄酒百科辭典》,以及與休·強森(Hugh Johnson)合著的《世界葡萄酒地圖》。她還是個專業電視講師,主講的「簡希絲•羅賓遜葡萄酒課程」和「酒商的故事」,曾獲得多個電視節目大獎。

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