樂尚街

Service, please
回味歐洲昔日的餐飲服務


那時服務員會推著小推車,在餐桌旁邊,用酒精燈現場烹調奶油沙司牛排、福斯特火燒香蕉冰淇淋、橘子黃油薄捲餅等賞心悅目的簡單菜點。

I recently interviewed a mâitre d’ in a London restaurant. Unlike many of his tribe who seem to be hired for looking imposing in a suit and sneering to a high degree of competence, this one had actually trained, at a catering college, several decades ago. Talk turned, as it often does, to the erosion of standards. “Of course,” he said, by way of emphasis, “when I trained we had Fuller’s Guéridon & Lamp Cookery as a set book.”

我最近採訪了倫敦某餐廳領班。與很多同行(這一行從業者工作時衣冠楚楚,咄咄逼人,甚至不屑一顧,顯得能力超羣)迥異的是,這位仁兄實際上幾十年前曾受過餐飲業科班訓練。我與他聊著聊著,話題就不可避免地轉向瞭如今每況愈下的服務水準。「當然,」他強調說,「本人上餐飲學校時,富勒(Fuller)的《小推車與酒精燈烹飪課》(Guéridon & Lamp Cookery)可是必修教材。」

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