Marcel Sabaté is general manager of a company making particularly good cava, the sparkling wine that is one of the distinctive flavours of Spain. When Castellroig was founded in 1994, he sold every bottle to his fellow Spaniards. But today he ships 70 per cent abroad.
“Sadly, when I go to present my wines in Spain I spend more time talking politics and economics than actually talking about wine,” he says.
Spain has more land under vine than any other country but its per capita annual wine consumption fell 46 per cent between 1995 and 2011 to only a little more than Britain’s. Consumption is also sinking in other countries traditionally associated with wine, including France and Italy.
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