專欄簡氏酒莊

Bourgeois values

It is fashionable in certain circles, among trend-conscious sommeliers for example, to deride the wines of Bordeaux. The fact that the top wines now sell at such unrealistic prices unfairly taints the reputation of the entire region, when in fact, at the other end of the scale, Bordeaux can offer some of the best wine value of all.

This is particularly true at the moment because the vintages currently on offer commercially – 2010, 2009 and, to a lesser extent, 2008 – were generally so successful, in stark contrast to the upcoming 2012 and 2011 vintages. I would urge those who like their red bordeaux plump and rich rather than lean and willowy to take particular advantage of the 2009s, which are chock-full of ripe fruit and easy appeal. The serious ones should be left for six or seven years more, but many are already gorgeous.

The Wine Society, canny buyers of bordeaux over many decades, are currently offering some particular bargains among 2009 red bordeaux. The most obvious is the straightforward Christian Moueix 2009 Bordeaux that is bought, blended and bottled in considerable quantity every year by the famous Libourne merchant J P Moueix. All luscious and fleshy, this wine is stunning value. I honestly find it very difficult to believe that all that pleasure, with a firm Bordeaux accent, so with good structure too, is available at less than £8 a bottle – although the Wine Society is admittedly a special case. Being a wine-buying co-operative, the outfit specifically avoids profiteering.

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簡氏酒莊

簡希絲•羅賓遜(Jancis Robinson),從事葡萄酒報導長達37年。1989年起爲英國《金融時報》撰寫葡萄酒報導。1984年,她成爲葡萄酒貿易行業外的第一位葡萄酒大師,並在全球品評葡萄酒。她撰寫過多本經典葡萄酒專著,包括《牛津葡萄酒百科辭典》,以及與休·強森(Hugh Johnson)合著的《世界葡萄酒地圖》。她還是個專業電視講師,主講的「簡希絲•羅賓遜葡萄酒課程」和「酒商的故事」,曾獲得多個電視節目大獎。

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