FT環球旅行家-與FT共遊香港

Three of Hong Kong's top female chefs
拜訪三位香港頂尖女主廚和她們的風味文化


放眼現今的香港餐飲行業,會發現不少技藝非凡、富有才華的主廚都是女性。本文邀你認識她們之中的三位頂尖選手。

Ask Michelle Garnaut, the pioneering Australian chef and restaurateur, how much the Hong Kong dining scene has evolved, particularly from the point of view of female chefs, since she opened M at the Fringe — the first independent fine-dining restaurant outside a hotel in the city — in 1989. You can expect by way of response a very wry, very worldly, very expressive snort. “Back then, cooking wasn’t even seen as a proper job,” she says. “Virtually no women were involved. I had one talented young female chef — a local — who quit to become a manager at KFC because her parents thought that any managerial role was more respectable than being a chef.”

問問澳洲主廚和餐廳老闆的先驅蜜雪兒•加諾特(Michelle Garnaut),自1989年她開設了香港第一家酒店外獨立高級餐廳M at the Fringe以來,香港的餐飲界發生了多大的變化,尤其是從女主廚的角度來看。作爲回應,你可以期待她非常揶揄、非常世故、非常意味深長的哼聲。「那時候,烹飪甚至不被視爲正經工作。」她說,「實際上沒有女性做廚師。我認識一位才華橫溢的年輕女廚師——一個當地人——辭職去了肯德基(KFC)當經理,因爲她父母認爲任何管理職位都比當廚師更受人尊敬。」

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