Last week, I sat at a bar in an airport in Paris and ate seven aeroplane meals in a row. The dishes arrived wrapped in tin foil, but this was not plane food as I have previously experienced it: there was caviar and yuzu sponge and a tiny French crêpe stuffed with whipped cream. The only real clue this was food designed to be eaten in the air was that it remained eerily still. At one point, a chef handed me a tomato and mozzarella salad and invited me to “shake the plate”. I shook, gently at first and then violently, but nothing moved. The chef looked delighted. Every meal was turbulence-proof.
不久前，我坐在巴黎機場的一個酒吧裏，連續喫了七頓飛機餐。上菜時用錫紙包著，但這不是我以前喫過的那種飛機餐：裏面有魚子醬和柚子海綿蛋糕，還有一塊小小的鮮奶油餡法式可麗餅。對於這些食物是專爲在飛機上食用而設計的，唯一真正的線索是它們保持了詭異的靜止狀態。有一次，一位廚師遞給我一份番茄和馬蘇裏拉乳酪沙拉，並邀請我「搖一下盤子」。我搖了，起初很輕地搖，然後劇烈地搖，但裏面的東西紋絲不動。廚師看起來很高興。每份食物都是防空中湍流的。