誰知盤中餐

Invitation to a Banquet by Fuchsia Dunlop — the surprising truths about Chinese food
和扶霞共赴「宴請」:發現中國美食的真相

This erudite historical account tells the story of China’s multifarious cuisine in lip-smacking detail
即使在今天,無知和偏見也造成了一種預期,即中餐在西方就應該便宜。這正是扶霞•鄧洛普的新書所試圖打破的。

It’s the throwaway lines that offer some of the most arresting moments in Invitation to a Banquet, Fuchsia Dunlop’s love letter to several millennia of Chinese gastronomy. That she once cooked 350 duck tongues for a banquet — in Oxford, of all places; that she had her first taste of fermented camel’s milk at a Kazakh circumcision party in Urumqi; or that Yi Yin, the master chef in the service of Duke Huan, the 7th century BC ruler of the State of Qi (in present day Shandong), was said to possess a perfect palate, but was also said to have made his son into soup to please the boss.

在扶霞•鄧洛普(Fuchsia Dunlop)寫給幾千年中國美食的情書「Invitation to a Banquet」(宴請)中,一些最不經意提到的內容最吸引人。比如,她曾在牛津——一個你意想不到的地方——爲一次宴會烹飪了350條鴨舌;她還在烏魯木齊的哈薩克族割禮儀式上第一次嚐到了發酵駱駝奶;還有公元前7世紀齊國(今山東)國君齊桓公的御廚易牙據說擁有完美味覺,但也據說他爲了取悅齊桓公把自己的兒子做成了肉湯。

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