Chinese museums are abuzz with exhibitions from European jewellery houses. Over the summer, Bulgari’s travelling exhibition, Serpenti Factory, opened at the Genesis gallery in Beijing, while Shanghai’s Power Station of Art hosted another travelling exhibition, Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto, which premiered in London last year.
And, next month, at the Fosun arts centre in Shanghai, Pomellato will unveil its first retrospective of advertising photography, titled Art & Jewellery, while Cartier will juxtapose more than 300 pieces from its archival collection with Chinese art in Cartier: The Power of Magic at the Shanghai Museum.
This flurry of activity illustrates how western brands’ strategy of associating with museums to elevate jewellery to the status of art — and thus increase its desirability — is resonating with Chinese audiences. However, these initiatives go beyond previous efforts by integrating elements of Chinese culture and positioning western brands not just as cultural exporters, but as actively engaging with local creativity.