樂尚街

Karl Lagerfeld: King of couture
專訪老佛爺拉格菲爾德


這位年約八旬的時裝大腕數十年來擔任芬迪、香奈兒和卡爾•拉格菲爾德三大品牌的設計總監,至今堅持手繪草圖。今年芬迪高級定製皮草秀更是引人注目。

Karl Lagerfeld doesn’t like to talk about the past. He refuses to discuss his 50-year career with Fendi, for whom he was made creative director, in charge of fur and women’s ready-to-wear, in 1965. Neither will he dwell on his 32-year stewardship ofChanel, where he has been the chief designer since 1983. He hasn’t even been to visit his vast “futurespective” in Bonn, Germany, the most complete exhibition of his oeuvre ever mounted, featuring everything from a reproduction of the coat for which he was awarded the Woolmark prize for design in 1954, to his first collections for Chloé (for whom he worked between 1964 and 1996), and from a regiment of mannequins dressed in Chanel tweeds, through Fendi furs to pieces from his own eponymous line.

卡爾•拉格菲爾德(Karl Lagerfeld)不喜歡談論過去。他不願談及自己爲芬迪(Fendi)效力的50年。1965年,他出任芬迪創意總監,負責皮草及女性成衣設計;他也不願詳述自己自1983年以來擔任香奈兒(Chanel)首席設計師32年的陳年往事。他甚至沒有出席在德國波恩舉辦的自己全部時裝作品回顧展「futurespective」:從他1954年獲得Woolmark設計獎的那件外套的複製版到他爲蔻依(Chloé)設計的首個時裝系列(他從1964年至1996年爲其效力);從一大羣身穿香奈兒花呢套裝的人體模特兒、各式芬迪皮草時裝到他自己的同名品牌,可謂一應俱全。

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