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Marion Morehouse
瑪麗安•穆爾豪斯


瑪麗安•穆爾豪斯頭部線條圓潤、四肢修長、背部筆直。她既不是女演員,也不是社交名媛,而是專職模特兒,這是一種全新的職業。

The partnership of Edward Steichen and Marion Morehouse changed the course of fashion photography. As chief photographer for Vogue and Vanity Fair, Steichen propelled both titles into the age of modernism. And they came no more modern and streamlined than model Marion Morehouse, with her sleek head, attenuated limbs and ramrod back, all accentuated by Steichen’s dramatic lighting. At a stroke, his predecessor Baron de Meyer’s soft-focus aesthetic looked outmoded and trivial. Vogue’s proprietor Condé Nast told Steichen: “Every woman de Meyer photographs looks like a model. You make every model look like a woman.”

愛德華•史泰欽(Edward Steichen)與瑪麗安•穆爾豪斯(Marion Morehouse)的合作改變了時尚攝影的發展軌道。作爲《Vogue》與《名利場》(Vanity Fair)的首席攝影師,史泰欽讓兩本雜誌邁入了現代主義時期。但它們的現代感和流線感都比不過模特兒瑪麗安•穆爾豪斯,她的頭部線條圓潤、四肢修長、背部筆直,史泰欽的用光又進一步強化了這些特點。轉眼之間,史泰欽前任德邁耶男爵(Baron de Meyer)的柔焦美學就變得過時而又不值一提。Vogue的老闆康泰•納仕(Condé Nast)曾對史泰欽說:「德邁耶鏡頭下的每個女人看上去都像模特兒。而你讓每個模特兒看上去都像女人。」

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