An abandoned railroad cuts through deep snow and an icy wind rattles the empty window frames of a derelict fish processing plant in the deserted village of Qoornoq, perched on the edge of Greenland’s second-biggest fjord between chunks of glacial ice.
Once a busy Arctic fishing village, Qoornoq is one of dozens of traditional Inuit settlements across Greenland whose residents were forcibly relocated by their Danish colonial rulers to apartment blocks in larger towns, in what was billed in the 1950s-70s as a modernisation drive.
Now, for many Greenlanders, these wooden ghost towns stand as testaments to some of the more bitter experiences of colonisation and reminders of a prevailing goal: to someday secure independence.
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