We arrive in the Lofoten Islands at night, after a flight to Oslo, another to Bodø, then a 25-minute hop in a small propeller plane to Leknes, one of Lofoten’s main towns. We fly over the dramatic Vestfjorden separating the islands from mainland Norway. During the hour-long drive to where we’re staying, I pick up on hints of the topography hidden in the darkness. There’s the briny smell of ocean. The feeling of a road narrowing to a curve around a cliff. Jagged peaks loom above us, as if etched in charcoal across the sky. Now and again we slow down for the narrow bridges that string together this remote archipelago.
我們在夜晚抵達羅弗敦羣島(Lofoten Islands),經過一次飛往奧斯陸的航班,再轉機到博德,然後乘坐一架小型螺旋槳飛機飛行25分鐘到達羅弗敦羣島的主要城鎮之一萊克內斯。我們飛越了將羣島與挪威大陸分隔開的壯麗維斯特峽灣。在我們前往住處的一小時車程中,我能從黑暗中察覺到地形的一些線索。有海洋的鹹味。道路逐漸變窄,繞過懸崖的彎道。尖峯在我們上方聳立,彷彿在天空中用炭筆勾勒而成。偶爾我們會因爲連接這個偏遠羣島的狹窄橋樑而減速。