Cut from a different cloth
奢侈品新招——獨一無二的面料


爲確保奢侈品的極端品質和不可模仿性,各大奢侈品公司加大對面料的投資,從繁複的古老手工藝到新材料新技術紛紛上場。供不應求的銷售數據證明,這一招很有效。

It was two seasons ago that Miuccia Prada set the ball rolling in her usual way. For the autumn of 2007 she wowed crowds not with elaborate cuts or silhouettes, but with a textiles extravaganza: plasticised and boiled mohairs, Shetland satin – a jaw-dropping fabric that fades from puckered rich silk to dense wool in one sheet – and hand-painted treated wool coats. It's a path she's continued on in subsequent collections via romantic organza prints by artist James Jean, to this autumn's artisanal lace.

「對我來說,面料在設計上佔去了90%的腦力勞動。」她表示,「這是我花時間最多的環節,因爲面料的質量是根本。選好了面料,也就搞定了時裝展,我心裏就輕鬆了。」

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