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Hermès chief eyes haute couture push as Paris house rides out luxury gloom

Axel Dumas says group is still planning to expand in China, where others are hurting

Hermès executive chairman Axel Dumas is considering a push into haute couture as the Parisian house emerges largely unscathed from a luxury slowdown that has exposed the widening gap between the strongest and weakest brands.

The 54-year-old Frenchman said Hermès, known for its colourful silk carrés scarfs and coveted Birkin handbags, would resist emulating peers that have made forays into eyeware, travel or hospitality, because it would require ceding operational control along the way. But he said: “We could do couture — we don’t rule it out.”

Haute couture is the most exclusive service offered by a select number of luxury houses, such as Chanel and Christian Dior, where garments are custom made. Gowns can run into the five and sometimes six figure price ranges. While Hermès has a fast-growing ready-to-wear fashion division designed by Nadège Vanhee and offers custom leather goods to select customers, it has yet to venture into couture.

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